Restoring Heirloom Bridal Gowns
In May this year, a 25-year-old bride featured in People surprised her family by wearing her mother’s dress to her rehearsal dinner. Olivia Turi chose to surprise her grandmother first, wearing a slightly altered version of her mother’s original gown.
The reveal, which took place in front of a church in NYC, deeply touched her grandmother, who “was completely blown away and hasn’t stopped crying since.” It was a powerful moment, since Olivia’s mother had always dreamed that one of her daughters would wear her gown. Like Olivia, many other brides are embracing the heirloom bridal gown trend, taking great pains to restore and sometimes restructure garments that have graced the beloved women of generations past.
(Photo: Old Hollywood Glamour, personified by 1940’s leading lady Gene Tierney, wearing what is now an Heirloom Gown, created by legendary designer Oleg Cassini.)
Away with the “Wear Once and Discard” Philosophy
The North American trend of restoring heirloom bridal gowns isn’t only driven by emotional factors. Sustainability is also a driving force for modern brides, with a survey conducted by Azazie showing that 42% of brides are eager to adopt eco-friendly options for their bridal wear. The new attention paid to sustainability makes sense when you consider that the average wedding produces around 63 tons of carbon dioxide. The wedding dress industry alone generates vast amounts of waste and has a huge environmental impact that many brides are seeking to reduce. Many are eager to adopt the “design for life” philosophy, which advocates for designs that are sturdy and capable of appealing to wearers for years to come. Restoration offers brides a way to make the “reuse and recycle” philosophy a reality during one of the most meaningful moments in their lives.
Cutting Down on Costs
Heirloom pieces may contain intricate lace, embroidery, and beading work—the kind of details that can raise the price of a dress from around $2,000 to $10,000 or more. Gowns that have been well-preserved in acid-free boxes or other high-quality means of preservation can cost less than $100 to alter. Those needing major restoration, including color restoration, can cost a few hundred dollars or more, depending on the degree of yellowing and the fabric type.
Preserving delicate lace and silk from decades past often requires factoring in transparent pricing for bridal dress cleaning and alteration from trusted specialists. However, many brides find that the cost of heirloom pieces is still significantly lower than a comparably detailed gown would cost at popular boutiques. Just a few techniques from the past that are highly prized today include hand-stitched French seams, detailed needle lace inserts, and fine bead work completed entirely by hand. All these techniques demonstrate the attention to detail that is so highly valued in vintage couture.
Adding One’s Personal Style
Brides who feel that heirloom gowns are a little too old-fashioned or out of sync with their own style are getting over this hurdle by redesigning their gowns. Many enjoy the best of both worlds by utilizing the original fabric, lace, or beading to create a modern silhouette or transform their dress into a second reception dress, veil, or bridal robe. Boston-based designer Nikki MacCallum reports that 70% of her clients last year brought heirloom fabrics or veils that they wish to repurpose for their weddings. Some transformed original lace bodices into boleros, while others turned old skirts into bridal robes or reception mini-dresses.
The trend has clearly reached beyond the USA, with many European brides embracing heirloom fashion. A notable example is Princess Beatrice of York, who wore a vintage gown created for Queen Elizabeth II in the early 1960s by the iconic designer, Norman Hartnell. The dress was altered and fitted by the Queen’s dresser, Angela Kelly, and the royal couturier, Stewart Parvin. They replaced the simpler sleeves with organza puffed sleeves and altered the bodice and hem to suit Princess Beatrice’s figure and style preferences. The gown’s beauty was enhanced by the Queen Mary diamond fringe tiara, which Queen Elizabeth wore on her own wedding day in 1947.
Heirloom wedding gowns are making a major comeback, with many brides drawn to the emotional value of wearing garments passed down through their families. Vintage dresses can be restored and altered, providing brides with access to beautiful fabrics and detailed work. This trend is significant, not only in the US but also beyond, with brides worldwide seeking to incorporate sustainability into their special day while adding a touch of personal meaning.